The Tomb of Ho Chi Minh
Hanoi, 18th
May 2002
As today was my last day in Hanoi, I made one last attempt to see Ho
Chi Minh's mausoleum and I...succeeded! And it was quite an
experience!
In order to save time, I jumped on a motorcycle taxi to take me
there, and he dropped me off right in front of the registration
hall, a good few blocks from the actual mausoleum, but where you
have to go first.
The sign said 'Take Luggage for Foreigners No Charge' and there was
a similar sign for the local people at a different counter. After I
handed my bag in, she gave me the leaflet and charged 4000 dong! I
don't know if that goes towards the mausoleum fund or into her
pocket, I thought it was supposed to be free... Anyway, I paid then
followed the constant stream of people, mainly locals, through the
grounds of the mausoleum, along a short trek, then finally, I saw
the mausoleum itself looming over me.
Before entering the building, I had to leave my camera at a small
desk to be collected later, no photos at all inside the mausoleum.
As the queue of people filed slowly forwards, a group of 3 guards
dressed in shining white uniforms and holding bayonets marched
slowly past us. Interestingly, when they were directly in front of
the mausoleum, they marched slowly, swinging their legs in full,
slow strides. But once they'd passed the front, they continued with
shorter, more regimental marching. As I progressed forward, the
number of guards standing by the queue increased steadily. They kept
an eye out for anyone inappropriately dressed, carrying a bag or
camera, wearing a hat or doing anything unacceptable. Ho Chi Minh is
Vietnam's national hero, and nothing that could be seen as even
slightly insulting is allowed. The lists of rules include: a very
strict dress code, you must remain in silence inside the mausoleum,
you can't put your hands in your pockets and more.
As I came to the main door, I looked carefully at the 2 guards that
stood motionless, bayonets in hand. Although impressive in their
white uniforms, there weren't as disciplined as the Buckingham
Palace guards, although their bodies were still, there eyes were
roving all over the place, destroying their impressive motionless
stance.
I entered the first chamber of the building, and was immediately
struck by the very sombre atmosphere. The low lighting and the
powerful air-conditioning gave the place a cold & spooky feeling.
The line of people moved silently forward, the guards watching
sternly over us, like some chain gang. Then I entered the main
sanctum. As I followed the walk way around Ho Chi Minh's glass tomb,
I could clearly see him. His pale, frail body looked unreal, almost
like a model, probably due to the embalming process. The whiteness
of his skin made him look unearthly, but looking at his small frame,
it was hard to believe I was looking at the body of the most
influential man in Vietnamese history. His tiny hands lay out in
front of him, while h is closed eyes stared at the ceiling. His
wispy beard, a famous feature of this revered man, could clearly be
seen. Around the tomb, four guards stood motionless, bayonets in
hand.
I followed the queue of people slowly around him, then suddenly I
was back outside in the heat & bright sunlight of the day. My
glasses instantly fogged over.
After that interesting experience, I checked out the Ho Chi Minh
Museum, quite good, but nothing amazing to say about it.
Next I headed over to the Temple of Literature, one of the more
famous temples in Hanoi. After exploring the impressive & peaceful
grounds, and taking a few photos, I went back to town.
The rest of the afternoon passed quietly, I just walked around the
streets of Hanoi, doing a bit of window shopping. There are so many
things I'd love to buy here, but there's no way I'd be able to get
it all home! So resisting temptation, I didn't spend any more money.
Except a few DVDs which I couldn't help buying ;o)
Tonight I take an overnight train to the town of Hue, my next stop
in Vietnam! Bye for now!
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