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The Journal

An Englishman (& Friends) in Los Angeles
Los Angeles, 1 November 2001

Palm trees. Lots and lots of palm trees! Protecting the streets in regimented rows. This was the first sight that greeted us as we flew into the city of Los Angeles. Well, actually, our first sight was a small, grinning photo of President Bush as we sank down below him on a small escalator in Tom Bradley International Airport. Hello Mr Bush!

The traffic was surprisingly quiet, especially for the sheer volume of it, punctuated with the common landings & taking-off of planes behind us. I took a deep breath, glad to find an alternative to the stale, recycled air on the plane. The air had a slightly humid taste to it, a little like New York in the summer, but not quite as intense. The palm trees that were oh-so-common, were covered in big brown scales, and they reached high up into the sky, as if straining to touch the sun. The leaves on top made them look like huge pineapples on even huger sticks!

After flying out of the concrete jungle that is Heathrow, it was amazing to find an airport littered with palm trees! I don't think I've ever seen a palm tree in my life, never mind in an airport!.

Anyhow, enough of trees. After having our passports examined by just about every official in the airport, then grabbing our bags as they hurtled past for the third time on the baggage reclaim, we entered the arrival lounge. I surveyed the lounge that stretched before us and noticed a board headed 'Hotels & Accommodation' on the far wall. Eager to find our first place to stay, I hurried over the sign, well as much as you can hurry with a huge backpack clinging to your back.

After scrutinising the board for a few moments, I managed to find 2 suitable looking hostels, but of course, no prices. I looked tentatively at the black phone under the board, then making an educated guesstimate, I picked up the phone and punched in the big black numbers next to the hostels.

After a rather strained conversation, where I was forced to translate my English (with a heavy Portsmouth dialect) into American, I managed to get the details I needed. (Whoever said 'the Americans and the English are two nations divided by language' was right.) We decided on staying at the 'LA Adventurer', a sort of 'hostel & hotel all in one' place. They assured us that our FREE, yes FREE, shuttle bus from the airport would be with us in 10 minutes. So we heaved our backpacks back on, and stumbled out of the airport.

After 15 minutes of watching spotty yellow buses and red & white hotel buses pass us on ridiculously small loops, we realised we didn't actually know what our expected bus looked like. So I dashed back into the airport and phoned the hostel again for a description of our bus.

I rushed back to the others with the description, a white bus with bold yellow writing, and we waited with renewed vigour. This time, we didn't jump up with expectation at every one of the 10 or so buses that passed per minute.

Eventually, after phoning the hostel again to check the bus definitely was coming to the right place, the bus pulled up before us.

We sat down on the furry brown seats opposite two surfy looking guys, (Quite common in LA, apparently) with their surfboards taking up all of the space in the back seats. I tried to smile a greeting to one, but it didn't really work and he just turned and spoke to his mate in Spanish. Unfortunately, my Spanish is limited to 'See Senior', so I had no idea what they were saying.

The bus took us through a maze of streets, all lined with the signature giant palm trees of LA. We pulled up at the hostel between a shining, black, stretch limo and a regal looking, traditional Rolls Royce. Ooh-er, is this place really going to be in our price range?

They showed us a couple of rooms and the dorms, both were very nice and, surprisingly, were in our price range. After a small team talk, we decided that we were happy to pay the slight bit more for a single suite for the four of us instead of using the dorms. It was our first night away after all. Plus, it’s nice to have a bit of privacy and be able to leave your stuff sitting around.

We did a little exploring around the hostel, finding a gorgeous looking, steaming hot swimming pool, a pool table and a well stocked bar - darn it, we're under 21 so we can't drink here. :o(

We then had a quick walk down the road to a McDonald's (yep, in the US they're never more than 5 minutes away). We also had our first experience of the amazing friendliness the Americans have to us British folk. Everyone seems to be dieing to talk to us. They all wanted to know about our travel plans and loved listening to our accents! (Accents? Accents? You're the one with accents, not us!). After chatting to the guy running the 7-11, he winked at me and let me have my huge bottle of water for free! Some of the other customers in the store, overhearing our story shouted, "Welcome! Welcome! We hope you enjoy your stay!"

What really surprised us, was that we were really worried that we were in a dodgy area of town. You know the feeling you get when you don't feel quite safe. The dark, urban streets, the quiet alleys, the unlit carparks. They all added up to make us feel slightly uneasy, but all we met was openness and friendliness. Well there you go, looks are deceiving!

After a short exploration of the neighbourhood, we came across a quiet residential street which had something strange about it. I soon noticed what it was, the windows were all boarded or protected with thick iron bars. We decided that now would be a good time to run back to the security of our hostel.

The rest of the evening was pretty uneventful. Due to the switch in time zones we were all really tired and at about 7pm we all fell into a deep sleep...

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