Back to Khao Sahn as a True Backpacker
Siem Reap (Cambodia) -> Bangkok (Thailand), 18th
June 2002
Today was THE day, the journey from Siem Reap (Cambodia) to Bangkok
(Thailand) had to be done. This journey is one of the most infamous
stretches of road in South-East Asia. Not because of bandit attacks,
wild animals or even natural hazards. It is notorious because of
it's roads, apparently taken straight from Hell itself. When I'd
done the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap road, although bad, it wasn't as
bad as other travellers had made it out to be. So surely this rod
won't be as bad as they say...
Initially, the road out of Phnom Penh was pretty good. Tarmaced,
flat & easy going. However, it quickly became worse, much worse. The
road up to the Thai border was like a gallery of hideous & evil
roads. At one point there were tarmacced roads with pot holes big
enough to consume a whole bus. The pot holes get so frequent that
many drivers choose to drive through the bushes at the side of the
road. At another point the road was covered with a man-made
material, but some reason I can't figure, the surface consists of
thousands of golf ball sized, jagged rocks, making it the bumpiest
surface known to man. Driving over this part is impossible at speeds
faster than 10mph, if you don't want to shake everyone's organs out
of their body. At other points the road was left au natural, but
somehow the surface had become covered in countless small bumps, too
small to pick out by eye, but big enough to feel on your spine.
These are only a few examples of the road. Some bits I've blanked
out of my memory to keep my sanity. Actually, driving on these roads
is a bit like having baby. Although agony at the time, you soon
forget the pain, and remember the good things you get out of it.
Which is good, or you'd be too scared to ever do it again. Which
would be a shame.
Eventually, we reached the border. Very shaken but alive. The border
crossing itself is a hive of activity. People are rushing around
every which way, going about their own business. Although a slow
process (the official had a lengthy conversation with a chum on his
mobile phone before sorting my passport), eventually everyone from
the bus gets through the border crossing.
On the Thai side of the border, we are all extremely grateful for
the lovely smooth roads. The condition of the roads is not something
you really think about, until you've been to Cambodia. I'll never
nice roads for granted again!
Unfortunately, we found that we had a 2 hour wait at a restaurant in
Aranya Pathet (the nearest Town to the border). No doubt an
`associate' of the bus company. Lydia was particularly annoyed at
being forced to wait there, and tried to make a stand by not buying
anything. However, in the end she was too hungry and ended up having
to buy something.
The 2 hours pass quickly enough, and then we're back on the road
again on a big air-con bus. Which would have been nice if the
air-con worked. But oh well.
After a few hours on the lovely Thai roads, the buildings start to
get bigger and newer. We're getting closer to Bangkok! As we pass
through the suburbs, I press my nose against the window, greedily
taking in the fantastic view of civilisation & technology. I love
cities and I've had my fill of small, dusty villages for at least a
few months. As we pass between the proud skyscrapers, gigantic
billboards and busy, raised motorways I sigh contentedly. It's nice
to be back in civilisation.
We reached Bangkok by about 7pm, just as the rain starts. The bus
stops in a corner of Baglamphu, not far from Khao Sahn road, and we
al make a run for shelter.
The rain soon eased off, then Lydia & I headed for the Merry V
Guesthouse. Everyone who comes to Bangkok seems to find a guesthouse
they like, then they will patronize every time they go to Bangkok.
For me, it's the Merry V, a decent-sized guesthouse with small, but
clean rooms, located far enough from Khao Sahn to escape the noise
when trying to sleep, but near enough to reach quickly & easily.
Luckily, the Merry V had one room left so we grabbed it before
setting out to find an Internet cafe.
On our search, we walked down Khao Sahn road again. Ahhhh, I love
Khao Sahn, so vibrant, so busy so full of life. Plus it sells
everything imaginable, so it's great for shopping!
Khao Sahn Road is also very symbolic, as it is `backpacker central'
in Bangkok, a main Asian international airport, it is the first
taste of Asia many travellers get. It bears almost no resemblance to
`real' Asia, but it acts as a `decompression chamber for those
changing from Western life to Asan life. It lets you in slowly,
giving you a chance to get your bearings before exploring `real'
Asia.
While we walked through the hustle of Khao Sahn, taking in its
unique flavour, I was brought back to last time I was here. The last
time I walked this road, I was a newbie traveller, a green
backpacker. Now, almost 4 months later, I'm standing in Khao Sahn
again. But now I'm a pro, I'm an experienced traveller. I've learned
the ropes and now I can look at the green ones and nod wisely,
because I know what's in store for them. Officially, I can now call
myself a backpacker. Now, where can I by the membership badge?
Checking my e-mail, I found I had an e-mail from Andy saying that we
should meet him Gulliver's (a main pub on Khao Sahn) tonight. Which
we did. After I grabbed some ubiquitous Pad Thai. Yummy, filling and
cheap, the ultimate Thai backpacker food.
We spent an hour or so in Gulliver's catching up with Andy. He also
told us that Gilad should be coming to Bangkok in a couple of days.
Yay! The old Vietnam crew re-united!
We were feeling pretty tired from our long journey today. (It's
funny how 12 hours sitting on your arse can be exhausting. So after
sorting a time & place to meet tomorrow, we headed back to our
guesthouse for the night.
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