The Trouble With Tuk Tuks
Bangkok, 31st March 2002
I was woken suddenly by the guard walking noisily up and down the
aisle. I had no idea what he was saying, he could have been
shouting: "Everything's ok, I'm shouting for no reason, I hope
you're sleeping well". A more likely reason was that they wanted to
fold away the beds, so we all had to wake up and move. Looking at my
watch, it was only 5:30am, but they obviously wanted to be ready
early.
Once the beds were folded away, I sat waiting. The guard sat down
opposite me and started talking. I had to quickly stop him and
explain that I couldn't understand Thai. He paused, then tried the
little English he did know, "What is your name". After a few more
phrases, he'd exhausted his English. I took a turn using the few
Thai phrases I'd learned. I then counted a bit in Thai (I'd learnt
Thai numbers, it was not too hard and it comes in quite useful). We
laughed a bit, I don't know why! Then once I'd run out of things to
say, we just sat silently.
The train got in an hour late, then I stepped out onto the busy
platform. My first day in the city of BANGKOK!
According to the Rough Guide, there should be a Khlong (canal) next
to the station where I could catch a longtail boat to the main
backpacker accommodation area, Baglamphu. However, after a fruitless
search around the station, I was getting very hot and bothered. It's
quite difficult walking around due to the level of traffic, it takes
hours to cross a road! Eventually a Tuk-Tuk driver started hassling
me, and I decided I might as well use him for my first day in
Bangkok. Tuk-tuks are funny little 3-wheel cars that are so-named
due to the noise of their 2-stroke engines. They're very common in
Thailand, especially in Bangkok. It was expensive compared to other
forms of transport, but still cheap compared to the UK.
On the recommendation of a Go Gap reader (thanks Alexander!) I'd
decided on a hostel, and the driver took me right to it. But as the
rooms weren't ready (it was just after 7:30am) I had to wait. So
after a quick freshen up, I left my bags there and decided to have a
look around.
Bangkok has a network of rivers & canals running through it (giving
it the name of 'Venice of the East') and they provide a large part
of the public transport network. Another bonus of river transport is
that boats don't get held up in the infamous Bangkok traffic jams.
I'd bought a Bangkok map in the station, but I found it really
difficult to use - I hate bad maps. Give me a good map, and I can
get you anywhere, but I'm stuck with a bad one. I eventually found
the main river, and after a bit of searching & asking, I was pointed
to the correct pier. After a few minutes, a ferry boat pulled up and
I hopped on. (Note, there are LOADS of boats on the rivers, make
sure you don't get conned into getting onto an expensive tour boat
instead of the ferry. I'll explain the difference later...
I visited the nearby Wat Arun (Temple Arun). It's a very famous Thai
landmark and it was an amazing sight. It's distinctive structure
reaches high into the sky, and is easily recognisable. After a walk
around, examining the intricate and expensively decorated buildings,
I went back to the guest-house to sort out my room.
I only spent one day in Bangkok on this visit. I'm coming back here
after going to Lao, then I'll spend a week here. I'm doing it that
way because it will allow me to sort out my Cambodia & Vietnam
visas, which take up to a week to process. I'd read that the popular
Bangkok Motor Show was on for this week, so I decided to check it
out. Getting there, turned out to be an interesting challenge.
The Motor show was taking place at the BITEC centre, a long way from
the centre of Bangkok. The newspaper had said what buses go there,
and so I'd planned to catch a longtail boat to the bus stop (which
was a long way from my guest-house). After standing by the stinky,
dirty khlong for a few moments, I saw no sign of any boats. I think
they might have stopped them, or I was in the wrong place. So, it
looked like I'd have to walk to the bus stop.
Of course, 5 minutes down the road, I was hassled by a 'helpful'
tuk-tuk driver. He told me that he'd take me past 2 popular temples
and an 'exhibition' then drop me off at the bus stop for only 10B
(less than 20p). I desperately tried to work out the catch, there's
no such thing as a free lunch, especially in BK (that's Bangkok, not
Burger King). But as I couldn't find one, I hopped in, checking
again that it was only 10B. He kept nodding, and then drove to the
first stop, a big temple with a huge statue of a reclining Buddha. I
went in to have a look, and was quickly joined by a Thai guy. He
started talking to me and he was quite a hyper-active character. He
told me he'd just met a guy from England, from Southampton to be
precise (right next to where I live), and we chatted for a bit. In
the end, I learnt about the 'exhibition' where the Tuk-Tuk driver
was taking me. It's a jewellery shop, selling some very expensive
pieces, but tax free for this week only. Anyone can buy them, then
'apparently' sell them on and make loads of money. Oh great, I guess
the tuk-tuk driver gets payment from the jewellery shop for taking
people there, that's why I got a cheap ride. (By the way, jewellery
scams are very common in BK) The man started talking faster &
faster. He told me about the 'cheap' US$3000 ring he'd bought and
all the other 'fantastic' deals.
Eventually, I got out of the temple and went to find the Tuk-tuk
driver. I told him that I had no intention of buying any jewellery.
It's far too expensive and I'm not interested. He kept insisting
that I just have a look, then we'd continue on. I didn't have a
problem with just looking, so off we went.
We soon stopped at a very posh looking, jewellery shop and a well
dressed man opened the door for me. I walked around this shop,
dressed in my budget travelling gear, looking at the expensive
designer jewellery. Hmm, $2000, $500. I walked round once, pondering
what to 'buy', then quickly left.
Off we went again, this time the driver asked if I'd look in a
tailor shop for 5 minutes because he'd get a fuel voucher if he took
me there. Not happy, but seeing as I was getting a very cheap ride,
I agreed.
When we got there, I gathered myself together to do some acting, and
went in. I pretended I was interested in buying a suit, spun a tale
to him, and basically said I'd like to buy a suit, but not yet.
First I'm touring Asia, so for now I just want to know the price. I
think he guessed what was going on, he looked at me sceptically for
a long time. I then quickly left.
The tuk-tuk driver drove at break-neck speed around the roads of
Bangkok, but luckily we arrived alive at the bus stop. Two minutes
after leaving him, another tuk-tuk driver stopped to 'help me'. Oh,
for .... I'd had enough of tuk-tuks for today, so I shook my head
firmly and walked away.
The right bus soon passed, so I jumped on and off we went. Slowly.
The traffic in Bangkok is terrible. It's one of the most congested
cities in the world. Even central London traffic moves faster! After
about an hour crawling through the traffic, watching through the
window, trying to work out where we were, we reached the stop. A guy
told me that this was the stop for the BITEC centre. All we had to
do now, was cross the road. But this road was practically a
motorway. A crowd of us stood by the side and when a small gap came,
we all jumped over the barrier & hurtled across the road. After our
death-defying dash, everyone got there safely. I'm really surprised
there isn't better arrangements for pedestrians to reach the BITEC
centre!
I walked around the huge building, drooling at the shiny, new, top
of the range cars. Some of the concept cars were particularly
impressive. All the big companies were there, with Mercedes & BMW
drawing huge crowds. One funny display, which I bet doesn't feature
in European car shows, was a section devoted to the latest tuk-tuks.
Well it must be a big market in Bangkok!
Afterwards, getting back to the guest-house was just as difficult.
As rush hour had started, the non-moving traffic jams got even
slower. Everyone was practically going backwards. Eventually, I got
out and walked, it was much quicker.
By the time I got to Baglamphu, it was dark and I headed to Khao San
Road - a 'backpacker central' for Bangkok. It's where most
backpackers head to when they reach Bangkok. It's quite a street!
The roads and streets are packed with stalls selling clothes,
souvenirs, food and everything a backpacker could need. Pubs, clubs,
restaurants, internet cafes and all the other essential travellers
things exist in copious amounts in Khao San road. It's a buzzing
place, full of bright lights and busy people every night of the
week. It's the only place I've been in Thailand where the Farangs
outnumber the locals!
When I collected my laundry, I found that one of my T-shirts came
back just as dirty as I'd left it. I think the extensive, brown
stains must be permanent now. I guess I need a new T-Shirt. So
dumping the filthy old one, I hunted out a new one from the prolific
stalls on Khao San road.
By the time I'd got one, it was getting late, so I called it a
night. I'm heading off to Nakhon Pathom tomorrow, famous for having
the biggest Chedi (spike on a temple) in Bangkok. A must see for any
real tourist!
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