The Taste of Rubber
Koh Samui, 28th March 2002
Today I went on a mini-tour or Safari with a company called Mr Ung's
Safaris. It cost 1500B (25 pounds) for a full day excursion, so
although cheap by English standards, it was quite a chunk of money.
But it was definitely worth it, and if you're only on Ko Samui for a
short time, I highly recommend it so that you get to see some of the
sights. Taking Sawngthaews can work out expensive, farangs pay 50B
per journey, irrespective of length. (I think locals only pay 20B,
but I'm not sure). But as some of the destinations I went to were a
bit off the main road, they'd be difficult to reach by your own
transport.
I was the first to be picked up, by a large black jeep, so I sat in
the morning sun for a while, chatting and drinking strong, sweet
coffee. The guys working there are very helpful and friendly.
After everyone else had been picked up, our first stop for the day,
was the monkey training centre. Coconut picking is big business in
Thailand, it is one of the world's biggest coconut producers. The
problem with coconuts is that they grow at the top of very tall
trees, making them awkward to reach for humans. Enter the monkey.
Monkeys are clever, and can be trained to climb the trees and
remover the coconuts.
We all stood in a wide circle around the large, furry, grey monkey,
who was tied to his handler by a long rope. We were reminded that
although the monkey respects its owner, it is still a wild animal
and could bite. So we all made sure we kept our distance. Our guide,
a fantastic guy with good English speaking skills and a cool accent,
explained about the monkey. While he was doing this, the handler
sent the monkey off. The monkey zoomed up the tree, scampering
lightning fast to the top, where it sat and started twisting the
coconuts. After a dozen or so twists, the coconut fell loudly to the
ground, and the monkey continued on the next one. It was quite cool
to watch this monkey cleverly release the coconuts. After it had
collected a few, it scampered back down and we were told we could
pose for photos with him on our arms. Dubiously, we stepped forward,
one at a time for this, surprisingly light, monkey to sit on our
arms for photos.
After some coconut tasting and large quantities of coconut juice
(there seems to be an unlimited amount in one coconut, no matter how
much I drunk, the level never dropped!) we moved on.
 The
next stop was the Elephant park. After a long, winding drive, we
arrived at a clearing in the middle of the jungle, where a number of
large, sad looking elephants stood, sombrely eating. The elephants
were all 'wearing' what looked like large red and blue benches on
their backs. They were tied on by long, thick pieces of rope with a
large pile of rugs between the elephant and the bench to act as
cushioning.
A guide in blue and red clothes, wearing a traditional wicker hat
tapped the first elephant on the head. Subsequently, the elephant
kneeled, quite elegantly, and the guide nimbly climbed up and sat on
the elephants head. He then guided the elephant over to a high
wooden tower where we could step across onto the elephant. Not as
much fun, but much easier! We all got onto different elephants, 2 or
3 per animal.
We then took a short tour through the surrounding jungle. It was an
interesting, if very bumpy experience. The placid, grey giant
wandered slowly along the path, carefully picking through rocks and
holes. Meanwhile we went up and down in slow rhythm with the
elephant's steps, first thrown one way, then the other. We had to be
really careful not to fall off! I'm also very thankful for the
cushioning on the chairs! It's quite amazing how this hugely
powerful creature is completely submissive to the tiny Thai man
sitting on his head. If it really wanted, I'm sure it could do A LOT
of damage. I leant forward to touch the animal's skin and it
felt...strange. It's very rough tough, wrinkly and hairy. It feels
very thick and strong.
The tour took us by a small zoo, which I don't think was really
necessary. It was just a collection of a few cages with miserable
and bored looking animals cooped up all day. I don't like zoos like
this and I honestly think it would have been better without it.
Anyhow, after the ride, we took a short walk through the jungle to
see a waterfall. Nothing amazing, but then again I've seen dozens of
impressive ones since I've started travelling, this one was mediocre
and the view was partially obscured. But some of the other tourists
were very impressed. Pah! Newbies!
We then took a break for a quick swim in an icy cold rock pool by
the waterfall. It was actually really refreshing in the heat, and we
left just before the crowds came.
We then took a really cool Safari through the jungle on the huge,
black jeeps. He shifted the jeep into 4x4 mode, then we were told
that a couple of us could sit on the roof. I literally jumped at the
chance, and clambered up over the driver's cab. Then off we went! We
drove through the forest over steep, bumpy, dusty roads. Hanging on
for dear life. If the jeep tipped a lot, then I had to quickly
choose between using my hands to (a) stop my self falling of the
roof, or (b) stop the big branches smacking me in the face. Needless
to say I had a few whacks in the face by the end. It was an immense
journey and it's amazing how the jeep can handle such tough terrain!
I also saw some pineapples growing in the wild, they looked quite
strange, not like I'd imagined. They're basically a small bush with
long leaves, like a crown, with a single pineapple growing awkwardly
in the centre. Weird!
When we reached the top, stopping for a view point on the way, we
grabbed a delicious meal at the mountain top restaurant. After
eating as much as I could, we headed back down the mountain for
another off road run.
We made our penultimate stop at a rubber plantation. It was pretty
informative and we tasted some rubber that came straight from the
tree. It tasted sweet, a bit like coconut milk, but thicker. Also,
if you leave it on your hand too long, it starts to solidify, a bit
like PVA glue.
After that, we made a short stop at the Big Buddha on the beach (the
one I went to a few days ago) before being dropped back off at out
hostels at about 5:30pm.
I've now got a few hours to get myself ready for the monthly,
world-famous FULL MOON PARTY that's happening tonight on the beaches
of the nearby Ko Pha Ngan island. Should be good!
I was concerned that the anti-malarials I'm taking wouldn't mix with
alcohol. But to quote the doctor I asked 'It mixes fine with booze'!
So after a long shower, some caffeine to keep me dancing through the
night and a long, hard choice about what to wear from my extensive
(not) wardrobe, I was ready to go!
Details are in the next diary entry!
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