Golden Buddhas and Friendly Locals
Hat Yai -> Nakhon Si Thammarat, 23rd March 2002
The 5 hour journey from Hat Yai to Nakhon Si Thammarat only costs 37
Baht (50p), I hope you're paying attention British Rail!
I went to the station an hour early to make sure I could get a
ticket and when I got there, I asked the attendant for 2nd class,
but there was only 3rd class. Uh-oh!. This could mean 5 hours on a
rock hard chair. I think my bum is going to suffer!
I had intended to go to KFC and get some breakfast (I don't really
do noodles or rice for breakfast), but it didn't open until 10am,
darn. Most of the other restaurants were shut too, but eventually I
found one that did western style breakfasts! Very hungry, I ordered
a fry-up of 2 eggs, 2 sausages, ham, toast, jam and tea (only 45
Baht, about 80p). But, imagining huge, juicy sausages, I was
disappointed to get the 2 smallest mini-sausages I've ever seen. Oh
well, it's cheap, so after quickly devouring my breakfast, I went to
the hotel, grabbed my bags and trotted along to the station.
I needed to get to platform 3, but instead of over-passes or
under-passes, I had to walk literally ON the railway tracks. They
did have very 'official' looking guards though, to make sure I don't
try and cross when a train was coming.
The train hadn't arrived yet, so I plonked my backpack down and sat
on it, dripping with sweat. Looking around, I appeared to be the
only farang here. Two Thai girls, wearing saris, started talking to
me. They talked pretty good English, so we talked a bit about
England and the trains here. A mother was standing listening,
holding her tiny, little son by the hand. The little boy started
saying something and pointing at my guide book. He obviously said
something funny, because they all started laughing (in a friendly
way), so I just smiled back, not having a clue what he was saying.
After a few minutes of him trying to get my book, the train pulled
up.
There was a bit of a queue to get on, but a guard leant out of the
window and pointed to the back carriage, there was no queue there,
so I hurried over. Thankfully, this carriage, unlike the others, had
padded seats, so the ride was going to be a bit more comfortable. I
sat down on the green chair, and put my bags down. Looking around,
the train looked like an old 'cowboy' style train, like the one at
the Grand Canyon. It looked in good order, even though it appeared
to be from the 1800s.
The carriage filled slowly, a Thai man with a big plastic bag of
rice sat down opposite me. I don't think he spoke English, so we
just grinned at each other occasionally.
The train pulled off and began to move away slowly. Actually, first
it jolted backwards, like when someone starts a car when its in
gear. They seem to do that a lot in Thai trains, luckily I was
expecting it this time, so I didn't fall over like a fool!
On the long journey, I passed through some interesting Thai scenery.
Initially, a lot of the houses looked as derelict as the ones in
Malaysia, but there was something a bit 'nicer' about them. Maybe
I'm getting used to these run-down houses, or the Thai houses had a
'Je n'ai sais quoi' about them that made them a bit nicer.
Although the houses are relatively poor standard compared to
European ones, they do what they're supposed to do. They keep out
the rain & wind and give the people somewhere to sleep. I guess my
Western eye's also aren't used to all the intermingled greenery that
makes them look messy. Ignoring the 'messy trees', the houses don't
look as bad as I first thought they did.
As we progressed through Thailand, I saw that there was a curious
mix of old wooden shacks, nicer modern houses, blocks of tiny
European city style terraced houses and more! Because Thailand is
becoming increasingly modern, there's a big mix of the old and the
new. Some places haven't caught up but others have.
I also started talking to the other people in the carriage, luckily
they spoke English. (Funnily, they were surprised that I spoke
English!) It turned out that two of the guys were Malaysian and they
work for the Malaysian Ministry of Environment. They were on holiday
in Thailand with a lady and another man. We talked a bit about
English universities and one guy wanted to know how we dispose of
waste in England, so I had to give it my best guess. Not one of my
usual topics of conversation!
The people were very friendly, the lady even bought me a bottle of
water when we made a stop. They also gave me today's newspaper (an
English one) when they'd finished with it.
The train soon reached Nakhon Si Thammarat, and I followed them off
the train. Again, we had to cross a few railway lines to reach the
platform, but this time there were trains in the way! So we
clambered through 3 trains to reach the platform. When I was inside
the last train, trying to fit my rucksack through the narrow door, a
bell rang and the lady started telling me to hurry. I quickly jumped
off and the train began to move away! Phew! That was close! I've no
idea where that train was going, but I don't want to go there now.
After the usual scuffle with some taxi drivers, I began the hunt for
a hotel. I soon found one and it was even cheaper than last night!
Only 140 Baht (about 2 pounds 20!) for a big, clean, en-suite room!
Nice!
The main attraction in Nakhon, is the huge temple called Wat
Mahathat. It's a huge and important temple, it's chedi (the big
spiky building) is the 2nd biggest in Thailand. However, the temple
was about 2km away, so I took my first ride on a Sawngthaew
(translation = 'Two Rows') which is basically a truck with two
benches facing each other in the back and it acts like a taxi or
bus. I told the guy I wanted to go to the temple and I jumped on
next to a couple of Thai teenagers.
After driving for about 10 minutes, and passing a very impressive
looking temple, we stopped and the other people paid and got off,
then the driver looked and me and said "Oh you! I forgot!". Luckily,
he waved down another Sawngthaew and gave the other driver the money
I'd given him, and he took me to the temple, this time remembering
to drop me off.
As I approached the temple gates, a middle-aged lady pounced on me
with a small bunch of flowers & a pack of candles in her hands. "20
Baht! 20 Baht!" She insisted, pointing to a huge gold statue of
Buddha. Hmmmm. Now the question was, did I HAVE to buy these flowers
to enter, or was it just a vendor selling an optional thing.
Suddenly, a young boy joined in, thrusting a small wad of grey-white
papers into my hand. "40 Baht!" he shouted. I shook my head, and the
lady pushed the boy away, but still held the flowers towards me. I
initially shook my head, but she kept insisting, looking very
serious. I went to move away, but she stepped in front of me. I
wasn't sure, but seeing as it was only 20 Baht, I bought them.
 I
wandered slowly into the temple grounds, gawking at the massive
statue of Buddha. I then followed the path round into the inner part
of the temple. I was presented with an amazing sight of a garden of
large grey spikes. I walked among them towards the single, massive
chedi and was greeted by a young Buddhist monk. He signalled for me
to take my shoes off, and I stepped into the building. There was a
small group of people inside, a couple were on their knees praying
before a small alter. The other people, fellow tourists, were
standing looking around in awe. I soon joined them. The decor inside
the building was amazing. The monk told me to place the flowers at
the bottom of the steps, then walk up to the top and have a look
around. I did as he said, then I almost tripped while walking up the
concrete stairs. Countless gold models of Buddha lined the staircase
with many other colourful and expensive artefacts amongst them. It
was an amazing sight, but I wasn't allowed to take any photos. I
reached the top of the stair and looked up to the very top of the
spike, which was covered in a large amount of real gold. Walking
around the chedi, I could see the dozens of bells and chimes that
hung ringing in the air. I walked round twice then, went back down
the stairs. The monk cheerfully talked to me in English then showed
me where the museum was.
The museum was more a huge collection of thousands of bits & pieces
and tokens given by worshippers. I walked round this small strange
collection, which must be worth a small fortune, then back out
again.
I wandered around the temple grounds for a while and eventually I
realised I was lost among the spikes. After about 10 minutes of
wandering around, I worked out where I was and successfully managed
to leave the temple.
Using the map I'd been given, I then tried to locate the Shadow
Puppet Workshop. Nakhon Si Thammarat is very famous for its history
of shadow puppets. One guy in particular is well known throughout
Thailand. So I couldn't come to Nakhon without making a visit.
I had a bit of trouble finding the workshop in the maze of streets,
but again, a friendly local came to my rescue. I was standing on the
corner of the street, holding up my map, puzzling over it. The young
Thai guy came jogging over the road and asked me where I wanted to
go, I told him, then he pointed down the road and to the right.
Thanking him, off I went.
5 minutes later, the guy came peddling furiously after me (on a bike
he'd borrowed from a girl in a nearby house) and told me I'd taken
the wrong right turning, it was the next one I needed. Thanks very
much again!
When I got there, a lady showed me around the workshop and a few
small museums. The shadow puppets are very intricate and amazing to
see. It takes a small team to create each one. Unfortunately,
because I was on my own, I couldn't watch a show, but if you come in
a group, they will put on a show for a suitable donation. It's a
pity, because the puppets looked really impressive, and it would
have been nice to see some local culture. Oh well.
I got back onto the main road and waved down a Sawngthaew. I asked
the driver to take me to the bus station, but he shook his head, he
couldn't understand me. Luckily I had my phrasebook, so I pulled it
out and quickly found the Thai word for 'bus station'. He nodded,
and I checked how much. He said '10 Baht'. Cheeky! He was trying to
charge me more! I shook my head and said '6 Baht'. He nodded, and I
climbed in.
He dropped me off near the bus station (his route doesn't quite go
to it), and I went to walk there. However, after a long walk out
around town, I couldn't find it! I wanted to go to Ko Samui
tomorrow, so I need to take a bus to Surat Thani (trains don't go
there). After looking for about 30 minutes, I gave up. I'll ask at
the tourist office tomorrow, they'll be closed now.
I wandered dejectedly back into town and tried to find an internet
cafe. I eventually found one and sat down to type my e-mails.
While I was there, I started chatting with one of the Thai people in
there. He was impressed by the fact I'd said 'hello' and 'thank-you'
in Thai (apparently very few tourists do) and wanted to know a bit
more me. I didn't actually get much done on the net because we were
talking so much. I asked him how to get to the bus station because I
wanted to go to Ko Samui tomorrow, he told me that I must have
walked right past it earlier, but it would be better anyway, to take
a mini-bus direct to the pier at Dam Tok, then take a ferry from
there. He then wrote down the name of a shop (the Thai name so I
could show it to a Sawngthaew driver) and the times (in English)
that the buses left at.
He talked brilliant English, and after I'd finished he met me at a
restaurant round the corner to chat a bit more. I discovered that he
meets lots of backpackers and travellers and he's got friends all
over the world even though he's never been abroad! We talked about
all sorts of things, comparing lives in England and Thailand. He
also taught me a few useful Thai phrases and showed me how to write
my name in Thai! (I'll put it on the site later.) I learned that he
had a number of names, his real one is Pairsin Promjan (that's my
best translation, sorry if it's not quite right!), but most
travellers call him Exandreaz (a name he likes), or simply X. Very
mysterious!
Exandreaz also told me that I'd probably find it easy blending in &
talking to Thai people because I don't look like a complete farang
(western foreigner). Because of my tanned skin, I could pass as
half-Thai or as coming from somewhere much closer. Travellers with
blonde hair & blue eyes stick out a mile in Asia, and locals are
sometimes much more wary of them.
By the end of the evening I was full to the brim with loads of
useful tips for travelling in Thailand. I swapped e-mail addresses
with Exandreaz, agreeing to meet up with in Bangkok in a few days,
then I headed back to my hotel for the night.
It was gone midnight, and after unsuccessfully trying to hang my
Mosquito Net from the ceiling, I gave up, sprayed myself with DEET
(very powerful mosquito repellent) and collapsed on the bed into a
deep sleep.
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