Go Gap Logo
left-tab  HomeThe Gap YearThe JournalGap Year Part 2Laos 19 right-tab
The Journal

Lycra-clad Laotians and Biting Bed bugs
Vang Vieng -> Vientiane, 3rd to 8th May 2002

After I'd had enough of caves and other such scenic things, I took a 'bus' back down to Vientiane. I spent my last few days in Lao exploring this quiet capital and enjoying the easy life.

Of course, I'd only been in Vientiane for less than 5 minutes when Tilen popped his head out of a bakery across the street & shouted to me. So after grabbing a bed in the dorms at Sabaidy Guest House, I joined them for breakfast.

After catching up on each other's adventures, we set off to explore Vientiane. Over the course of the next few days we split into groups and did our own things. We kept ourselves busy over the next few days, so our time in Vientiane passed quickly. However, due to the annoying snail like nature of internet access in Laos, I became a bit lazy and didn't update my journal for a few days. This means that I can only offer a quick summary of what we did before leaving this beautiful country...

We checked out a dozen and one different markets, the most impressive one was the morning one which had a huge and impressive range of goods. The least impressive one was the evening market, which we found was closed in the evenings...hmm...just a suggestion, but maybe they should change the name?

Tillen, Sophie & I also took a short hike out to a store called SMP Enterprises, a fantastic shop selling brilliant, hand-carved wooden goods. We'd found their smaller branch in Luang Prabang but decided to make our purchases here. It was in a far corner of Vientiane, but was worth the effort to get to. I bought some beautiful carvings and was almost tempted to by an amazing chess set. But the sheer size & weight meant couldn't really buy it.

We also went to see the amazing Wat Pha That Luang, a unique and breath-taking wat (temple). It can easily be seen from a distance as a solitary golden finger that scrapes the quiet blue skies near Vientiane. I'd definitly recommend seeing this instantly recognisable monument. It was one of my favourite sights in Asia.

Another interesting sight is the Buddha Park, a sprawling collection of sculptures of Buddha in various classic poses and other assorted deities. I believe it to be the work of one sculptor (I can't remember for sure...) and the size of the collection is astounding! From reclining Buddha images which are more than a dozen times larger than a man, down to tiny individual religious icons. It really is quite a breathtaking sight...I'm always amazed by sculptures, especially on this scale! How do you even begin to do such a thing?! The whole sculpture garden is quite a refreshing experience, especially as it's in an idyllic, tranquil grassy setting. It's only a short bus ride away from the main city and is really worth the trip. But if it's busy there, you'll feel like a little child, out with his kindergarten group, running through the doors, holes, nooks and crannies of the 100s of assorted sculptures!

One of the stranger sights we saw was possibly the largest outdoors aerobics class ever! 100s of Laotian people, more lycra than you could shake a stick at and cheesy trance music makes the strangest, but funniest looking aerobics class ever!

If you come to Vientiane, I'd definitely recommend grabbing one of the freshly filled baguettes you can get on the street stands. I had delicious fresh baguette sandwiches every day! You can just point to what you want, or have a chat with some of the few English speaking ones. The range choices of fillings is vast and scrumptious...and juicy...and full of flavour....mmm...I'm getting hungry just thinking about it!

And the last food related tip...is the Scandinavian Bakery! This really is a wonderful little bakery/cafe situated right in the middle of Vientiane. Come on for the huge, western style breakfasts (the healthy kind, not the greasy-British stereotypical, artery-clogging breakfast) or enjoy one of the delicious cakes, pasteries, biscuits,buns,rolls....

And there's one more reason why the Scandinavian Bakery is well known among backpackers...this is explained by the unique award which they won from Go Gap...the Best Toilet in Asia award! Really...a beautiful, sparkling-clean Western style toilet. Trust me. They'll come a time when you've seen more squat toilets than people in Asia or you're feeling a bit rough around the edges after a big night out, the toilet in this bakery is a life saver. Seriously. Grab a drink here, then use their toilet. You won't regret it.

But that's a enough toilet...now for something even more gross...read on if you dare...

In Vientiane, I chose to stay in the 'Smile' guesthouse...one of the very few backpacker type places in the city. They have largish, fairly comfortable dorms and came recommended in my guidebook...so I went with it..

After one night in the Smile guesthouse, I began itching in the morning...scratching a little by lunch time and by the evening I was scratching like a  Drum & Bass DJ convention....So I carefully checked out my arms and my sides, and lo and behold, I was covered in rows of little red lumps. Weird. What was it? Bed bugs. Nice. Not. Ewwhhhhhhhh....

However, I was a bit stuck...I couldn't move out because there was no where else for the same price and I needed to stay in the city for a couple more days. However, I found out somewhere that bed bugs are killed by sunlight and I remembered that my bed was far from the small window in the room. Luckily, there were some empty beds by the window, so I made a quick change and didn't have any more troubles. Still, It wasn't a nice experience and even though I told the hostel owner, I don't think they did anything about it...So, if you're ever in Vientiane...do NOT stay in the Smile Guesthouse!

After all of these experiences, it was soon time for the breaking of the fellowship. The group of people I'd met when I arrived in Laos all had different plans for the next steps of their journeys. Of course, before we all went different way, we had a goodbye drinkies sesh (2 litre jugs of beer only cost 14,000Kip, about 1.20! Don't get that at home). It went late into the night and before we knew it, the small hours had disappeared into a haze...

The next day Tillen & Wesley took an early bus to Chiang Mai (Thailand), and Matt & Danny headed south in Lao. Sophie also headed South in Lao & Tom went in the direction of Bangkok. And with everyone now gone, it was time for me to go too. But the destination for me? Hanoi in Vietnam!


Next Diary Entry >>



left-tab To know the road ahead, ask those coming back right-tab
GoGap.com is created and owned by Simon Hooks. (mail@gogap.com).