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Orange Snot?!
Phnom Penh (Cambodia), 5th June 2002 (Part 1)

Our boat skidded comfortably around in a small circle and then pulled up to a small jetty. As we approached I noticed an innocent looking crowd of Khmer men standing, looking out at us & jostling each other. I wondered why they were standing there, when it suddenly became very obvious. Just before we touched the jetty, they all pulled out an assortment of signs & posters. They all pushed forward waving adverts for countless different guest houses. `This is going to be fun', I muttered under my breath, the others nodded in agreement.

We all took deep breaths, then climbed out of the boat onto the jetty. Literally, just as I had tentatively placed one half foot onto the small jetty, I was engulfed. If it wasn't for the fact I wasn't feeling any pain, I would have thought I was being mugged by a huge gang. After an assortment of signs had been pushed into my face with the accompanying shout of `Very Good hotel! You come with me!'', I noticed a sign for the `OK Guesthouse', the same one we'd got adverts for at the border point. Deciding I liked the sound of their place, I made my choice, and pushed my way towards them. Amy, the girl I was talking to on the boat, asked if she could join me, I nodded, and she pushed through the throng to join me. The two touts from the `OK Guesthouse' led us triumphantly to their waiting motorbikes. After I balanced myself precariously behind my driver, carrying my assortment of souvenirs, we sped off from the small crowd on the jetty. As we wound our way through the busy streets, slightly more organised than Vietnam, I noticed that the Dutch couple were alongside us, coming to the same guesthouse.

After a short ride, We turned down a side street and stopped outside the OK Guesthouse, which looked...well...ok! They advertised that they had single rooms for $3 and $4, so I decided to check out the cheaper room first. However, it turned out to be a dingy looking box of a room. I didn't like it at all, so I asked to see the $4 room. This one turned out to be miles apart from the other one (in standard, not distance). $1 brought a much nicer, bigger, bright, airy and all round much better room. So I took it.

I headed back down to the lobby/ restaurant and grabbed myself a drink. Soon after Amy joined me. She'd been shown the same nasty room, before requesting, and getting one of the nicer rooms next to mine.

After we'd had a bite to eat, we met up again after a quick shower and change of clothes. Our first task for the day was to find a bank so we could get hold of some riel, Cambodian money. Our `friendly' moto driver insisted that the banks were too far away to walk to. After a little discussion, we decided we didn't believe him and managed to sneak off to try to walk there.

On our walk to the banks, we get a chance to have a good look at central Phnom Penh. It's a very peaceful city, and quite small for a capital city. There are many amazing buildings with stunning architecture. After we'd walked past some government buildings, a few wats, the Palace and the National Museum, I quickly decided I really liked the Khmer building style. (Photos to follow). The flowing curves, intricate decor, and towering, imposing rooves all add up to make a very impressive style.

The roads, however, were a different kettle of fish. Although the main ones were fine, if VERY dusty (London=Black snot, Phnom Penh=Orange snot), the side roads were in varying states of disrepair. They ranged from the decrepit, crumbling tarmac ones with large potholes, to the un-tarmaced, very bumpy dirt tracks. Cambodia has a reputation for terrible roads, and I think this may be a taster for what's to come...


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