Peaches and Pressure at the Temple
Ubud, 10th March 2002
Stinge and I had decided to take one of the tours organised by our
hotel today. At only 80,000Rp (US$8) to spend a day seeing a list of
major sights, it was pretty good value. Also, as no one else was
coming on this tour, we had complete freedom about how much time to
spend at each place!
We woke at the reasonable (to me, but early to Stinge) time of 8am.
Last night's sleep had been average, for some reason the cockerel
starting crowing at 3am, even though there was no light. Stinge
reckoned someone had shone a torch in its eyes. Does that work?
After the free breakfast, a yummy banana pancake with coconut and
syrup, we were ready to go.
The first place we went to, was a place called Goa Gajah, the
Elephant cave. We paid the small fee of 3100Rp (about 20p) to get
in, put on our sarongs and headed down to check out this ornately
carved cave. On the way, a guy in traditional Balinese dress asked
us if we would like him to show us around. I asked if we had to pay
and he said yes. So I said, 'No thanks, we'll be ok looking on our
own and he walked off, a bit rebuffed. The cave was quite
interesting, with 3 small shrines inside a T-shaped cave. The
actual, external carvings were the most interesting. We got in and
out quite quickly because we arrived early, before the busloads of
tourists arrived & the vendors set up.
The next stop was at a small Holy Spring temple in Tampaksiring. We
paid another entry fee of 3100Rp. Once we got inside though, we got
a little lost, but by following 2 men in traditional Balinese dress,
we soon found the temple. We had to put on our sarongs again, and we
discovered that some religious ceremony was going on. There was a
large gathering of Balinese people all dressed in their official
clothes. We tried asking a few people what was going on, but the
people we spoke to couldn't speak English. I'd got so used to the
Balinese speaking English, that I hadn't bought my phrasebook, so we
had to give up. I watched them for a while with interest. They
seemed to be in the preparation stages and one man in white Balinese
gowns was walking around with a spanking new Sony camcorder
recording what was going on!
Our next stop was at a small place called Penelokan (meaning 'Place
to Look') half way up Gunung Agung to check out the view around, and
WOW! We got superb views of the nearby Lake & Gunung Batur -
absolutely astounding! After overcoming the awe and taking a few
photos, we moved on again.
Our next stop was the most important temple in Bali, at Besakih.
This fantastic temple is perched on the side of the highly revered
Gunung Agung . However, our experiences here were to turn out a bit
mixed.
We drove up the side of the mountain to the car park, where we
needed to pay a 'donation' of 5000Rp each. We then drove on through
and parked. Climbing out of the car, we found we were in the middle
of a dusty car park. Around us we could see the standard colourful
stalls and vendors all ready to pounce on the tourists. The car park
was full of stray dogs all snarling at each other and barking, but
ignoring the people, luckily.
We walked up to the main entrance of the temple complex and were
confronted with a small group of men who said hello. One of them
then led us up the path, quickly I asked if he was going to be our
guide. He said he was, then I replied that we couldn't afford a
guide and we'd rather explore on our own. He stopped and turned
round and told us that he was a 'temple guardian' and that we NEEDED
a guide to proceed. Immediately, a large group of these 'guides'
gathered around us, this was the first hostility I had felt in my
time on Bali. They told us that we must have a guide to proceed in a
neutral but forceful manner. I then asked how much we would have to
pay for this. They said the standard amount was 100,000Rp each. I
told them that we could not afford that, and he asked what was the
most we would pay. "20,000Rp", I replied, "No more." They talked
loudly to each other and said that was not enough, so I countered by
saying we could not afford any more and so we would not bother
seeing the temple. I turned round to leave, but they quickly agreed
to 20,000Rp. Although we did get a different guide to the one we
were originally going to have.
That was not the end of the problems with these 'guides' though,
more would come later.
The guide led us up to the front of the temple. The view was
magnificent, the temple really is splendid and astounding to look
upon. There are dozens of tiered spires poking high into the sky.
There was a hive of activity, vendors rushed around the tourists on
the grass pavilion trying to make some sales. Groups of tourists
were being shown around by the guides, cameras flashing everywhere.
A crowd of Balinese people in religious dress were descending the
high staircase to the front of the temple.
The guide began explaining a bit about the temple to us, then we
walked up the stairs to the temple. Unfortunately, although he spoke
good English, I could make out little of what he was saying through
his strong accent.
Besakih is an amazing sight, however, the holy atmosphere is ruined
by the people there who are all trying to get money. I understand
that there is a lot of financial hardship in Bali, so I don't have a
problem with them being there, trying their best to get some money.
But I need to warn you that NOTHING is free. Small children ran up
to us and pushed small red flowers into our hands, then 2 seconds
later they whimpered "Give me money, give me money". The rain then
started to fall, and people ran around offering umbrellas. We
refused the umbrella pushed in our direction, but he kept insisting
we took it, with no mention of payment. However, I turned and asked
him if it was free. He said 'no'. So I said 'No thanks'. Be careful,
people will give you things or services THEN ask for payment after
you've used them.
The guide showed us around various parts of the complex, stopping
for photos occasionally, until we finally came to a small temple
where tourists and locals alike can come and pray. It was absolutely
amazing to be able to have a go at one of their rituals. It also
explained why we saw so many people with rice on their faces.
We sat cross legged on a raised platform, and a small square tray
made of leaf, full of flowers with an incense burner on top was
placed before each of us. We then followed the guide's lead: First,
we rubbed our hands in the smoke from the incense burner. Then we
took a small yellow petal, held it between our hands, sat in the
praying position for a moment, then placed the petal behind our
right ears. We then repeated this with a red petal that went behind
out left ear, then finally with a purple petal that was placed on
top of our heads. A lady in the temple then came over and sprinkled
us with water. We then needed to drink 3 small sips of the water and
she finished by sticking a few grains of rice to our foreheads. An
interesting ceremony, something I've never done before! Balinise
Hindus do this ritual very often.
However, we then ran into some problems. The guide said we now
needed to put an 'offering' (money) into the tray and take the tray
to the table at the front of the temple. Stinge & I hesitated, one
thing jumped to my mind, a phrase from my guide book: "Don't be
fooled into giving any extra entry fees or 'donations' when you're
inside the temple". The guide told us that most tourist give $20,
$50, $70 or $100 each, but as we were students, we could give that
between us. Yeah right! I can't give $20, that's up to 4 days budget
in Asia! We'd already given a donation to get in and paid our guide.
I told him I could not afford that much, so he said put in what you
can afford. So I took a 500Rp note out, but he said, 'that is small
money and it has no place here'. He kept saying that I needed to put
at least US$10. Stinge looked in his wallet, and reluctantly put in
US$5. Fair enough for him, but he's going home soon and I didn't
like the guide's increasingly pushy attitude. I kept telling him
that that was too much money and he kept saying everyone gives
money. He told me I couldn't give an empty offering, but kept
telling me to put in lots of money. A bit concerned I might be
insulting him and not happy with this situation, I said "I cannot
afford to put that much money in. If I have offended you or your
religion, I will give you the money for showing us around and I will
leave now". But he just kept insisting I put down 'what I could
afford' (as long as it was over US$5). I probably would have been
happy to under different circumstances, but we'd already forked out
a lot for various temples and this temple already. After a bit of a
stand off, I said I would take my offering up and place my money in
up there, (where he couldn't watch me & tell me that 'small money
had no place here'). I walked up, but of course he followed, I put
in 1000Rp, then stepped down, and he put his offering up and we left
the temple. I noted that his offering was empty.
The guide was a bit quieter for the remaining few minutes of the
tour, but he didn't appear to harbour any bad feelings, he took his
payment for showing us around & he shook our hands before leaving.
I guess with hindsight, putting down US$5 might have been easier,
because it isn't that much money, but at the time, I didn't like the
situation or the pressure he was putting us under. Also, 50,000Rp
sounds like a lot when you're being rushed. I want to know, did I do
the right or wrong thing? Can anyone write to me and tell me?
Anyhow, we soon got back to the car and drove off to our next
destination. Our driver asked us how much we paid for our guide, we
told him 20,000Rp each. He said we might have been able to get it
for 10,000Rp each, but lots of Japanese tourist actually pay up to
1,000,000Rp for a tour, which doesn't help the people with less
money!
We made a quick stop at a point called Bukit Jambul that overlooks
some fantastic scenery, including the famous rice fields of Bali.
I'd never really thought what it takes to make rice, but since we've
been here, I've seen it takes A LOT of work and A LOT of time. I
just eat it without a second thought at home! They really are worth
seeing if you come to Bali.
Our final stop was at Klungkung to see the old justice courts. They
show some of the traditional architecture and were quite impressive
to see.
We were soon on our way back to our hotel after an interesting,
culture-packed 3/4 day of activities.
Not much else happened for the rest of the day. We just ate and
relaxed. I also continued planning my route around Asia.
That night, the Karaoke music started again without fail, but I'm
getting used to it, and I soon drifted off to sleep...
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